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Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

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bluenosey
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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by bluenosey »

Richt wrote:Blah, go for the one I recommended earlier in the thread.

A steal at that price, and I have never had a problem with it.

Doing about 100 miles a month on it at the moment, (that's not my speed though btw) :D
Seconded :D

Mine is going very well, still making trips back and forth to the shops.

Took it back to Halfords after about six weeks and they did a service, free of charge.

A mate got one second hand but his gears keep on slipping - I'd only get one off Ebay if you know your bikes.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

Which I don't :lol:

I don't even know which size :?

I'm 5'10-11 but with lil legs 29" inside leg....

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... =true&msg=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Something like this?

I appear to be off the scale on the size chart, though :(

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by bluenosey »

Yeah, you can have 18" or 20" frame (drop down arrow on the right)

I got 20% off my mine - they were having a special on line offer each week. May be worth waiting now until after Xmas.

Best bet is to go into the shop and try them for size.

I'm just under 5 11 and I think Ive got the 18" frame.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

This is the spec of the link above for Unc, or a wise owl to run an ey over.

Currently £220 from £450, so further reductions are probably unlikely? (Unless the £450 was a rip off price to be a "Great Reduction" in the future. I could rant here about shops ridiculously over-pricing item(s) in one shop in the country to then offer it at normal retail price, but claiming a Massive Reduction in the rest of their shops......)

Alloy Rims: Yes
Brake Type: V-Brakes
Chainset: Shimano FD-M191
Exact Frame Size: 18"
Forks: Chromoly fork
Frame: Lightweight 6061 T6 Aluminium
Frame Colour: Dark Blue
Frame Material: Aluminium
Frame Size: 17-18
Front Brake: Tektro Alloy V-Brake
Front Mech: Shimano FD-M191
Gear Shifters: Shimano EZ-Fire shifters
Gears: 21+
Gender: Mens
Handle Bars: Alloy low rise
Headset: Semi Integrated
Hubs: Alloy with Alloy QR
Number of Gears: 21
Pedals: Wellgo Alloy Black
Rear Brake: Tektro Alloy V-Brake
Rear Mech: Shimano TX-55
Rims: Double wall alloy rims
Saddle: Carrera
Stem: Alloy
Suspension: Rigid
Wheel size: 26"
Tyres: Puncture resistant

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

I waddled to Halfords yesterday, and obviously they didn't have any 18's to sit on but, trying out a few sizes either side, this seem to be the right size. The spotty kid was a bit vague on most things and the bloke at the real bike shop wasn't overly helpful tbh.

It would appear that http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65534#dtab" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; has a further £25 off online so it drops to £195. This seems too good to be true, which means it probably is? Also in store the original price was £374, not £449........

It seems that I also need:
A helmet - are they a legal requirement?
Lights
Pump -
Padlock type thing - would this bike be "worth nicking"?

Anything else I need except a very florescent top so cars don't take me out in a fit of rage because someone left at trace of jam in the butter, or squeezed the toothpaste from the top instead of the bottom?

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by bluenosey »

I got a helmet (medium price range), flashing front and back lights (bought together) and a lock - three for two at Halfords.

You definitely need the helmet. Like me, you will probably look like a prize prune in it ( :wink: ) but out on the roads, it's reassuring to wear it.

The spec looks good to me but you will have to wait for one of FISO's bike experts to give it the heads up.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Richt »

Blah, re the pump thing.

Don't bother going for one of the old fashioned hand pumps. I would completely recomend one of these. Can easily be picked up for around a tenner.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... guy_165661" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I got one off of Ebay, a poorer mans version which doesn't feel very strong, but works a treat, and quickly too.

Helmet - you definitely need one of these, have you seen the mental motorists out there?

Lock, not sure, I have one, but only a very basic one. I suppose it depends on where you are going to leave it, if you are going to cylcle anywhere. (I guess that's pretty obvious though).

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

I wasn't planning on falling off, or descending a mountain a la TdF :?

Last time I had a bike was the 1970's :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Richt »

You may not be thinking of falling off, but picture this scenario.......

You are over taking a parked car, the driver doesn't see you and opens her car door just at the wrong time.........

(seriously mate, you definitely need one). Those road things are quite hard to hit your head on :)

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by bluenosey »

Image

Which one were you ?

:P

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

No Win No Fee :lol: :lol: :lol:

But yes, I accept I need to look like a prune - shrivelled, or otherwise :(

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

The miserable one (yet funniest of the three) :wink:

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

Helmets aren't a legal requirement but most people wear them now. They're not as uncomfortable as they used to be, but try some on before you buy. Decathlon do some decent cheap ones. I know plenty of people that have broken helmets coming off. If they'd not been wearing them then it wouldn't be the helmet that got broken...

Echo the point about a track pump - get one with a pressure gauge as well. Much easier than faffing around with a small pump (and the best way of avoiding punctures is to keep the tyres fully inflated). You will need a spare tube, some levers and a small pump for fixing flats on the go though. Don't go for a mega flash super light mini pump though unless you want to be furiously pumping on the side of the road for 10 minutes to get enough air in to ride on. A cheap frame pump is fine.

Lights yes, although you don't need anything that will break the bank - just got to be bright enough to be seen unless you're going to be on dark towpaths or unlit country lanes.

Lock is a definite if you'll be leaving it anywhere. Yes it will be nickable. Bike thieves mainly just want something they can flog quick for £50 down the pub to fund the next hit - any bike will do.

I'd also get a multitool - something with some allen keys and screwdrivers on it for running repairs.

Padded shorts will make life a bit comfier as well, and some sort of cycling shirt that comes down low at the back saves you getting a cold spot on your lower back (and means that anyone behind you doesn't get treated to a faceful of builders arse). Maybe steer clear of the full lycra getup for a while though :lol:

Bike looks fine. Never heard of most of the components, but they should be OK. Shimano and Tektro are well known makes, and as long as you avoid Shimano Tourney they'll do the job. If you get the bug you'll want to change bike to something a bit slicker then you can do that then, but for now I'm sure it will be OK as long as you keep everything adjusted. Definitely looks better than the real cheap rubbish supermarket and bottom range Halfords ones, although obviously at that price if you're doing any serious riding it'll be a bit lacking, but as something to do the odd 10 or 20 mile ride on it should be great.

Best advice I've ever seen about bikes is on the Surly website:
If you think your bike looks good, it does.

If you like the way your bike rides, it’s an awesome bike.

You don’t need to spend a million dollars to have a great bike, but if you do spend a million dollars and know what you want you’ll probably also have a great bike.

Yes, you can tour on your bike – whatever it is.

Yes, you can race on your bike – whatever it is.

Yes, you can commute on your bike – whatever it is.

26” wheels or 29” or 650b or 700c or 24” or 20” or whatever – yes, that wheel size is rad and you’ll probably get where you’re going.

Disc brakes, cantis, v-brakes, and road calipers all do a great job of stopping a bike when they’re working and adjusted.

No paint job makes everyone happy.

Yes, you can put a rack on that. Get some p-clamps if there are no mounts.

Steel is a great material for making bike frames - so is aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium.

You can have your saddle at whatever angle makes you happy.

Your handlebars can be lower than your saddle, even with your saddle, or higher than your saddle. Whichever way you like it is right.

Being shuttled up a downhill run does not make you a weak person, nor does choosing not to fly off of a 10 foot drop.

Bike frames made overseas can be super cool. Bike frames made in the USA can be super cool.

Hey, tattooed and pierced long shorts wearin flat brim hat red bull drinkin white Oakley sportin rad person on your full suspension big hit bike – nice work out there.

Hey, little round glasses pocket protector collared shirt skid lid rear view mirror sandal wearing schwalbe marathon running pletscher two-leg kickstand tourist – good job.

Hey, shaved leg skinny as hell super duper tan line hear rate monitor checking power tap train in the basement all winter super loud lycra kit million dollar wheels racer – keep it up.

The more you ride your bike, the less your ass will hurt.

The following short answers are good answers, but not the only ones for the question asked – 29”, Brooks, lugged, disc brake, steel, Campagnolo, helmet, custom, Rohloff, NJS, carbon, 31.8, clipless, porteur.

No bike does everything perfectly. In fact, no bike does anything until someone gets on it to ride.

Sometimes, recumbent bikes are ok.

Your bikeshop is not trying to screw you. They’re trying to stay open.

Buying things off of the internet is great, except when it sucks.

Some people know more about bikes than you do. Other people know less.

Maybe the person you waved at while you were out riding didn’t see you wave at them.

It sucks to be harassed by assholes in cars while you’re on a bike. It also sucks to drive behind assholes on bikes.

Did you build that yourself? Awesome. Did you buy that? Cool.

Wheelies are the best trick ever invented. That’s just a fact.

Which is better, riding long miles, or hanging out under a bridge doing tricks? Yes.

Yes, you can break your collar bone riding a bike like that.

Stopping at stop signs is probably a good idea.

Driving with your bikes on top of your car to get to a dirt trail isn’t ideal, but for most people it’s necessary.

If your bike has couplers, or if you have a spendy bike case, or if you pay a shop to pack your bike, or if you have a folding bike, shipping a bike is still a pain in the ass for everyone involved.

That dent in your frame is probably ok, but maybe it’s not. You should get it looked at.

Touch up paint always looks like shit. Often it looks worse than the scratch.

A pristine bike free of dirt, scratches, and wear marks makes me sort of sad.

A bike that’s been chained to the same tree for three years caked with rust and missing parts makes me sad too.

Bikes purchased at Wal-mart, Target, Costco, or K-mart are generally not the best bang for your buck.

Toe overlap is not the end of the world, unless you crash and die – then it is.

Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.

Yes, you can buy a bike without riding it first. It would be nice to ride it first, but it’s not a deal breaker not to.

Ownership of a truing stand does not a wheel builder make.

32 spokes, 48 spokes, 24 spokes, three spokes? Sure.

Single speed bikes are rad. Bikes with derailleurs and cassettes are sexy. Belt drive internal gear bikes work great too.

Columbus, TruTemper, Reynolds, Ishiwata, or no brand? I’d ride it.

Tubeless tires are pretty cool. So are tubes.

The moral of RAGBRAI is that families and drunken boobs can have fun on the same route, just maybe at different times of day.

Riding by yourself kicks ass. You might also try riding with a group.

Really fast people are frustrating, but they make you faster. When you get faster, you might frustrate someone else.

Stopping can be as much fun as riding.

Lots of people worked their asses off to build whatever you’re riding on. You should thank them.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

Many thanks, but what is toe overlap? It sounds dangerous :? :lol:

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

blahblah wrote:Many thanks, but what is toe overlap? It sounds dangerous :? :lol:
:lol:

Toe overlap is where your toe can hit the front wheel when taking tight corners, ie your toe overlaps the front wheel. Not really a problem at normal riding speeds, only when taking really tight corners. Not really an issue except on a fixed or doing cyclocross

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

Phew, I thought it was something to do with camels :lol: :lol:

Should I go for the full body wax? :?

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by bluenosey »

blahblah wrote:Phew, I thought it was something to do with camels :lol: :lol:

Should I go for the full body wax? :?
Nope, just watch your nads on that saddle :P

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Moist von Lipwig »

great advice post unc.

Doesn't matter what bike you have regular maintenance will make it last longer. There'll be a decent independant somewhere that'll do a proper service every now and again, one near me does a full for £30 (another charges £70 for the same) and that includes the disc brakes. One thing I've found about v brakes blah is once they start need adjusting/tightening they're a pain in the arse to get right - or maybe I was just crap at it. It was always bike shop for me for that when i had them.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

Good to learn to maintain it yourself though, especially when something goes wrong 50 miles from home :D

Worth having a go at stuff but than having the bike shop sort it out if you mess up, and yes, getting them to give it an annual service is probably worth it for peace of mind until you get proficient.

Evans Cycles run free bike maintenance sessions to cover the basics - changing tubes, adjusting gears, brakes, cleaning chains etc (Evans are expensive for maintenance though - min charge £11 where if it's something simple like re-indexing gears a local bike shop might only charge you a fiver)

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Achiles74 »

If I had seen this thread I would have given you some advice and that would have been the following

Never buy a bike from Halfords.

ideally my sir you should be looking at hand built bike from the Uk

For 650 quid you could have got a Merlin Malt 1 from Merlin cycles

http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+Shop ... 1-BIKE.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have a Malt 1 which is at least 10 years old and is going as strong as the day it was built, thrown around down the mountains and mud in North Wales every weekend.

I will be pretty sure you will replace this Carrera is 2 years times, after it has fallen apart.
200 quid every 2 years on a new budget bike over 10 years and you are looking at a outlay of over 1000quid add that to the fact that ride is much nicer on a more expensive bike than a budget bike.

Better to pay more for a expensive bike once than often on poorly built budget bikes.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

Merlin's a decent enough bike for the cash, but you do know it's made in Taiwan don't you. If you think it's hand made in the UK then, well...

They take Kinesis frames, put a decent gruppo and nice finishing kit on and flog em cheap. Nice bikes, but after 10 years the only thing that's going to be original about them is the frame. It's a bit like saying you've had the same broom for 20 years.....

Read the thread. These guys don't want a 'proper bike'. Best advice is to go for something that's at least rideable for short trips and isn't going to end up unridden in the shed. If anyone gets the bug they'll upgrade soon enough. If you're only doing 10-20 mile road/tow path trips a couple of times a week a Carrera's fine.

Just like your Merlin. Any serious MTB'er will think it's a pile of junk, but if it's good for you, it's a good bike.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Achiles74 »

I have a orange 224 evolution for my serious downhill riding.
The Merlin Malt is just for messing around the local tracks and winter training on.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

Cause you have :lol: :lol:

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by Achiles74 »

All 4700 quid worth of it mate :wink:

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by murf »

I have actually seen Achiles out on his Orange bike. He was out riding with his girlfriend, Megan Fox. I'm sure it was them even though they flew past me going 50mph at the time. It was on a steep uphill section, about a 1 in 4 and there was an 80mph headwind.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

Did it look like this?

Image

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by murf »

No, it definitely had stabilisers.

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by blahblah »

Well, I finally secured the above bicycle with a rather becoming blue Giro Indicator helmet, combination lock, lights, bottle holder, and a reasonable pump for £255. The hunt for a jacket proved ridiculously confusing: and seeing as it will take a while to get up to doing sufficient distances to make a good one worthwhile I picked up a garish bright green top for £5, which goes rather well with the blue and white helmet, if I say so myself. All I need now are some clips and\or a pair of tightish black\navy warm things for my legs.
unc.si. wrote:Good to learn to maintain it yourself though, especially when something goes wrong 50 miles from home :D
This is the next on the list, but it will be a while before I get 50 miles from anywhere :lol:
unc.si. wrote: Worth having a go at stuff but than having the bike shop sort it out if you mess up, and yes, getting them to give it an annual service is probably worth it for peace of mind until you get proficient.
I assume there are a few sensible books, with appropriate diagrams? Or is it a case of learnign by mistakes?
unc.si. wrote: Evans Cycles run free bike maintenance sessions to cover the basics - changing tubes, adjusting gears, brakes, cleaning chains etc (Evans are expensive for maintenance though - min charge £11 where if it's something simple like re-indexing gears a local bike shop might only charge you a fiver)
Unfortunately, I'm not near any of them......

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Re: Loking for a Good Bike for Less Than £150

Post by unc.si. »

For maintenance, look at the 'repair help' section of the Park Tools website. Pretty much everything you need there. Sheldon Brown site is good as well, plus you can find youtube vids of most jobs.

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