Trekking time again? Nepal ...

[Pouzar99]

My feet are getting itchy again. It's been 5 years now since I did the incredible 24-day Snowman Trek in Bhutan, plus the Annapurna Circuit and Annapurna Sanctuary treks in Nepal. My FISO pal. Paul Gordon, did a helluva job managing my TFFO teams while I was gone. I have been running again for more than 3 months, and am not that far from my ideal weight, about 70 kgs or 154-156 pounds, with plenty of time to get there. I have always wanted to hike in the remote highlands of Ladakh and Zanskar in northernmost India, above Kashmir, and I have found a very good, very challenging high altitude 4-weeker Aug. 11th to Sept 8th, that requires some really quick acclimatization. That's a long way to go for just one mind-boggling hike, of course. The same small company offers a month-long trek in the restricted region of Dolpo in western Nepal, making a 4th trekking trip to the world capital of walking very tempting. The Kathmandu Guest House in the heart of Thamel is like a second home. There's even time to squeak in a two-weeker north of Kathmandu in Langtang and Gossainkund in between. Then, if I'm really feeling pumped I can stick around another 10 days for a demanding high-altitude stunner in the Everest region with a few 18,000 foot-plus high passes, including the one I did on my first trip to Nepal back in 1985, that offers the best views of Everest. At my advanced age I may have to talk these guys into letting me come, but hopefully I can. If I eat the whole thing I will be gone just about 4 months, skip the fall term and miss about 40% of the hockey season and the Prem season until about Dec. 5th. I will also have to talk (bribe) my ex to look after my cat, Betty. No final decision probably for a few months but I'm leaning towards going. As a 65-year-old its hard to say how many more years of this crazy stuff I can handle. Of course its all talk until you do it, but I've been doing it for decades, so what the Hell.

[murf]

Go!

[Pouzar99]

Won't you join me. Nothing more bracing than four months of walking. Kind of hard if you're not retired I guess.

[murf]

Won't you join me. Nothing more bracing than four months of walking. Kind of hard if you're not retired I guess.

Would love to but I'm too settled (wife/dog/garden - sod work!) and my legs couldn't hack it.

[Bert.]

I know someone who did the trek to Concordia, they rave about it.

[Richt]

I know someone who did the trek to Concordia, they rave about it.

I think Achiles probably has too.

[jpk]

Sounds fantastic, how much would it cost ?

[Bert.]

I know someone who did the trek to Concordia, they rave about it.

I think Achiles probably has too.

Wow! perhaps he can tell us about it if he reads this, it sounded beyond amazing to me, though damn hard work.

[Bert.]

Sounds fantastic, how much would it cost ?

http://www.themountaincompany.co.uk/pak ... dogoro-la/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.keadventure.com/trip/k2/k2-a ... ordia.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Pouzar99]

JPK - How much does the Concordia hike in Pakistan cost, or the ones I am considering doing? Concordia is surely a very rugged and exotic hike with wonderful views of K2 and other great mountains but not that challenging altitude wise, as the top height you reach is 4,800 meters, about 15,700 feet. The real dicey part is that you are a westerner travelling in Pakistan. Yes, you are outside the most hot places, but it would still be dangerous.
The Ladakh-Zanskar hike presents much greater altitude risk, going much higher and much faster, to about 5,600 meters, well over 18,000 feet, but is pretty safe as this is Buddhist not Muslim territory and I believe it is not part of the Indian territory disputed by Pakistan. As for the aesthetics, they are probably a matter of personal taste, but Concordia would surely have more spectacular mountain views, not dissimilar to Nepal's Annapurna Sanctuary or to the high passes and small, walkable summits around Everest. The Dolpo trek also includes an 18,000 foot pass in rarely visited territory you need a special permit for. Langtang and Gossainkund would involve walking heights similar to Concordia and eye-poppoing views but not as spectacular as Concordia, or as wild. You could do the Everest hike, although this is the most challenging version of it I have come across, and Langtang on you own, but even though I am fit and experienced I would at least want a single guide-porter with me, so I could carry less. I suspect the 24-day Snowman Trek in Bhutan, which I did in 2008, is the most challenging of them all with 9 passes higher than any on the Concordia hike, with very long daily hours on very rough trails into the absolute back of beyond. The four treks I am considering, if one includes the fees to the companies, all the air fares, the mandatory tipping of the crews, souvenirs, and the accommodation and meals in between treks would cost well over 10,000 pounds, likely 13-14,000. Of course you can subtract the money you would be spending at home for food, entertainment, etc., so lets say 10-12,000 pounds. That is a LOT of dough and an amount of time off work that only a retired or self-employed person could manage, but fortunately I have the time and the money. I just have to determine if I am up to and up for it and I can convince the company I am.
I would love to read posts from anyone who did the Columbia Trek as it sounds like a hair-raising and phenomenal journey. For me high-altitude trekking to remote places is the world's best and most rewarding holiday and this would likely be my last shot at anything this ambitious.

[Pouzar99]

Looks like the triple trek is on. Just need to get a full medical check-up to ensure things are okay, then pay my deposits, but I have a spot on all three. Thus, barring the unforeseen, I will be gone, leaving for India about August 7, getting home about Dec. 7th. No FF next year but I will try and keep up when there is access to the internet.

[Pouzar99]

I paid my non-refundable deposit on all three organized treks, Friday, so barring the truly unexpected I will be on my way come early August. Here is the basic itinerary for the second leg in the wilds of Dolpo in western Nepal, a restricted area that rquires a special permit.



http://www.project-himalaya.com/k-nepal ... omsom.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[blahblah]

Congrats and good luck for the "dodgy" places.

I would get in a bit of practice if I were you

[Pouzar99]

Paid for my flights today. I leave Aug 7 and return on Dec. 7. After I write a couple of final exams on Tuesday I will be focused on trek prep until I step on the plane. I have now squeezed in a shorter fourth trek to Langtang and Gossainkund Sept 14-27.

Here is the basic info for the final trek - High Everest.


http://www.project-himalaya.com/k-evere ... asses.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Pouzar99]

All things a go for the Himalayas. Got my shots, booked my flights, obtained my visa for India, paid my fare and in just over 10 weeks I'm in the air. I have really stepped up my physical preparation in the month since completing my final exams. I am now running just short of 80 minutes three times a week and going on 3-hour walks in my hiking boots on the in-between days. On the seventh day I rest, with my mates at the pub. I haven't felt this good since ....six years ago when I was doing the same thing before tackling The Snowman Trek in Bhutan. I just noticed that I will turn 66 on the day we reach out highest altitude in Dolpo, about 18,000 feet. I celebrated my 60th on the Annapurna Circuit with a Mars bar from my guide-porter as my only B-day gift. I can only hope I can experience something similar on my 70th.
I hope to get out to the Rockies in July for some tough hiking trips with huge elevation gains, although there is no way to simulate crossing high altitude mountain passes. Just like last time, I am immensely enjoying the pre-trek prep, shopping for needed gear, reading up on my destinations but mostly the physical stuff, like doing three sets of 50 pushups, or pressups, a day. It it like something in the mind and body loves the running, walking and other exercising, as it puts colour in the cheeks, gives you an endorphin glow, and mucho positive vibes. It's also nice to fit back into button-popping clothes you haven't been able to wear for a few years. Spent mucho dinero today on a new suit, plus a couple of new shirts, ties, etc. for my son's law school graduation on June 6th in Toronto. Sorry for sounding so damn positive, even though the world is going to Hell, but right now life is very good.

[Billy Stark]

Respect. I couldn't imagine doing they treks. Good luck and enjoy it

[Tricky Tree]

It does look truly incredible, wishing you the very best for the trek and hope it is as amazing as it looks.

[Pouzar99]

The time has come. I board my plane in about 7 hours and will take about a day to get to New Delhi, and 9 hours later I will take the 80 minute flight to Leh and start gulping for air at 11,500 feet. I am not taking my cell phone along, so there won't be any pictures until I get back, but I will post the odd time during the 4 months of trekking when there is an internet connection available. I will be checking the EPL standings, of course, but it is impossible to play fantasy football this season. Cheers

[Surprised]

Enjoy the trip!!

[murf]

Have fun and mind the yetis.

[Knulpuk]

but it is impossible to play fantasy football this season. Cheers

Think you need to work on your priorities.

Have fun.

[MorrisonDullforce]

Hope he is keeping safe.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-29640241

[murf]

Hope he is keeping safe.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-29640241

Does say 4 Canadians and an Israeli missing (Pouzar is Canadian) but the links Pouzar put up seem to be a New Zealand company so no reason why he would be with a predominantly Canadian group. I hope.

[MorrisonDullforce]

Hope he is keeping safe.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-29640241

Does say 4 Canadians and an Israeli missing (Pouzar is Canadian) but the links Pouzar put up seem to be a New Zealand company so no reason why he would be with a predominantly Canadian group. I hope.

I know very little about the geography of this area, but having looked at it again, he mentions he has already done the Annapurna Circuit in his opening post. So I assume he has gone someone different this time and hence hopefully not got caught up in this.

[unc.si.]

100 still missing in Upper Dolpo, which is where Pouzar was going (although not sure of timings).

Hopefully he's OK and was somewhere safe when the storms hit,

[MorrisonDullforce]

I paid my non-refundable deposit on all three organized treks, Friday, so barring the truly unexpected I will be on my way come early August. Here is the basic itinerary for the second leg in the wilds of Dolpo in western Nepal, a restricted area that rquires a special permit.



http://www.project-himalaya.com/k-nepal ... omsom.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The itinerary posted by Pouzar indicates he would have been in Upper Dolpo.


http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldne ... -grow.html


"According to Him Thapa of C G Trekking, only one of the 11 trekking groups missing in Upper Dolpo has made contact. Dolpo's deputy police Superintendent Surya Bahadur said he had not given up hope that the missing trekkers may be found alive. "We hope they are safe on the way," he said."

[Surprised]

I really hope he is OK

[unc.si.]

Storm was Tuesday, Monday was an 'exploration day' I think according to that timetable. Hopefully they didn't set off on the trek on Tuesday or hadn't got far enough to get into trouble. Fingers crossed they're OK.

[MorrisonDullforce]

Some more positive news.

http://www.business-standard.com/articl ... 049_1.html

"Another 100 people, including 60 foreigners, were also out of touch in the remote Dolpo region, near the Tibetan border, trekking agent Jitendra Jhankri said.

According to Jhankri, it was normal that no contact could be established under the circumstances.

"It is unlikely that they were hit by the snowstorm," Jhankri said."

[Pouzar99]

I am not dead. Thanks for caring. We were hit hard in Upper Dolpo by that killer snow storm, but, yes, we were in a good spot, the village of Komogoan, and had no idea about the carnage all around us on Oct. 14th. We got about 2 feet of snow, the worst hit places got 6 feet. Luck of the draw. We were a day ahead of schedule and the extra day waiting the storm out just put us back on schedule. We were headed for the 18,070 ft (5,560 m) Jungben La (pass) and just hoping enough snow would melt so we could cross it and catch our flight from Jomsom. Unfortunately western Nepal is probably one of the worst places on earth to be if you want to know what is happening in Western Nepal.
A few days later one of our US trekkers got a text message from his wife about all the deaths on the Annupurna Circuit, Mustang and Daliguiri, but nothing about Dolpo. I was devastated by the news, especially all the deaths of people crossing the Thorung LA, which I crossed 6 years ago. I didn't sleep a wink that night, imagining those poor souls dying horribly in a place I knew well.
Dolpo is unimaginably cold in October and turned far colder after the storm and things got really tough. We finally made it to Charka on the 21st, ready to cross the pass, but as we walked up the valley towards the village we noticed 4 separate rescue helicopters landing in the village and wondered what the Hell was going on. We soon found out. The pass was closed. There were at least nine dead bodies at the top (recovered the next day) and there was no way to get to Jomsom except by helicopter. During our 36 hours in Charka 12 rescue helicopter landed, mostly evacuating groups that were out of time and folks that were simply exhausted by the toughest trek I have ever walked. We lost one guy who was simply gassed out. Luckily, we had a bit more time and our trek leaders, Kim and Lapkha knew a brutally difficult 6-day 'escape route' to Juphal, site of Dolpo's only airport, which would turn out trek route into a circuit. They walked the route 5 years ago and vaguely remembered.
We shared the info with Ducth group who followed a day behind us and we all made it out, altough i was a real adventure, with six thigh-high river crossings against powerful currents on the first day, some extremely exposed walking on tiny, narrow paths with 100 meter drops I tried hard not to look at it, very very rough surfaces, constant ups and down and between 21 and 25 kms to cover every day. Not for the faint of heart, but there were incredible mountain views, no other trekking groups encountered, lovely villages and in a few places cold beer. The fourth dy was my 66th birthday and we celebrated in style, with massive bottles of San Miguel, really tasty rum mix, presents, a good roasting by my trek mates and finally a delicious chocolate cake with one candle with "Happy Birthday Tom," on it.
On the final day, 4 Aussies and I commandeered a gazebo, found the only store in Juphal with a fridge and over 3 or 4 hours emptied it of cold beers twice, while sharing the kind of bawdy stories one does on the last day or a trip. I felt like an honrary Down Under man. Flying in and out of Juphal, a village on the edge of a mountain ridge with a ridiculously small landing strip, is the dodgiest experience of the entire trip. The flight in scared all of us to death, including our trekker who is a pilot and couldn't believe how little space they had to operate, but was impressed by the pilot's skill and nerve, plus the fact they breathalyzed him first.
There is lots more to tell. Like how the trekker that is a doctor performed a life-saving operation on the edge of our dining tent on an injured horseman. Or my nightmare day in Langtang where I nearly stepped on a poisonous snake, fell and smashed my head on a boulder and was tormented by rampant leetches, pulling 24 off my body along the way. Etc.
Again, thanks for caring and I must say your detective work was pretty good. I have been going for 84 days now, with 39 left to go. I am off again on Sunday, taking the bus to Jiri and walking to Lukla, the airport in the Everest region, where I will meet up wit yet another team of trekkers for a 21-dy walk to all the Everest Hos spots. Apart from some sunburn on my nose, a minor bout with snow blindness in my right eye and two feet that vaguely resemble human ones, I am doing fine and out-walking everyone in sight except for Roger, the Englishman who was my walking companion in Dolpo.
Cheers